Mykita + Maison Martin Margiela: The joys of chemistry
Moritz Krüger, CEO & Creative Director at MYKITA and Maison Martin Margiela talk about their shared approach to design and how their debut collection came about.
What does the brand Maison Martin Margiela signify to you?
Moritz Krüger: Maison Martin Margiela is a free thinker in the world of fashion; they play by their own rules. We adore their conceptual genius and the creative rigour and quality they apply to all creations. MYKITA and Maison Martin Margiela are kindred creative minds and we are very excited about establishing a radical, new eyewear collection together that reflects the synergies of both houses.
Was there a special theme or design concept for the MYKITA + MMM models?
Moritz Krüger: The construction of the collaborative frames is based on the fundamental design principle of MYKITA: to create technical solutions that are at the same time aesthetic ones. Our approach is to combine precise handcraft with modern technologies. In the case of MYKITA + Maison Martin Margiela we played with ingredients from both parties creating a new composition. The Essential collection translates historical shapes for eyeglasses into a contemporary context by radically reducing them to their essence using specialised technology. The deconstruction theme becomes visible in the DUAL collection. Born of one form, the piece is deconstructed and divided into pairs. Complementary – but with four independent identities. This collaboration is special because of the zeitgeist it captures. It’s historical but futuristic; state-of-the-art technology is paired with a radically reduced construction, transformational and contemporary at the same time.
There are many eyewear brands out there, please tell us why you chose MYKITA?
MMM: MYKITA is a visionary brand that has long revolutionized the eyewear world. Intricately handmade and with a distinct aesthetic, MYKITA and Maison Martin Margiela share an affinity for conceptual construction and innovative design.
Can you tell us a bit about the design/creation process from the first idea?
MMM: From the very beginning there were two ideas with a wish to work on metal and on acetate from different perspectives. For the metal theme, named Essential, classic and even vintage shapes are combined with a brand new and avant-garde technique consisting of a complete coating over the frame, which softens the metallic structure and making it a mono-block, with the same coloured lenses. In doing so, the glass is reduced to its raw material, conveying a pure and radical look. For the acetate Dual theme, two pairs of acetate frames are deconstructed before being layered upon each other, thus creating glasses of two complementary yet contrasting colours and designs.
How does MYKITA decide on collaborations?
Moritz Krüger: We are always looking for new ingredients for our laboratory. We see collaboration a little like an endothermic reaction, where we mix the DNA of two companies as substances in a test tube. Then you have to wait a certain time. You never know how long it will take. But the result is always a new matter. It was incredibly thrilling to combine MYKITA and Maison Martin Margiela in this way, because we knew something extraordinary had to come out of it. This is always our approach when it comes to collaborations – to create exciting, new projects and products with a truly fresh identity.