IN CONVERSATION: CARLA FERNÁNDEZ, REDEFINING HAUTE COUTURE

Carla Fernández in the MYKITA store Soho during her New York salon presented by MYKITA. Photography by Brian Pollock.

Timed with New York Fashion Week and the opening of her partner Pedro Reyes’ first exhibition at Lisson Gallery, Carla Fernández Salon is being presented at MYKITA SoHo. For five days, the store hosts an installation of her designs, shown alongside a curated selection of MYKITA eyewear.
 
The salon creates a unique intersection of fashion, art and design, while also serving as a reminder of Fernández’s singular contribution to ethical fashion. At the heart of her house is a network of over 175 artisans across Mexico whose textile heritage and skills are brought into dialogue with contemporary design. Fernández took time out of her packed New York schedule to speak with us about the roots of her philosophy, the evolving role of tradition, and her ongoing exchange with MYKITA.

Designs by Carla Fernández created in collaboration with artisans from different regions in Mexico. Photography by Ana Hop.

MYKITA: You’ve often described fashion as a tool for cultural preservation as much as for expression. How did this philosophy take root in your early career?
 
Carla Fernández: When I was a very young girl, my father was travelling around Mexico, because he was the director of all the museums and cultural sites of the archeological institute of Mexico. Whenever we travelled with him, we would visit archeological sites. And even though the sites themselves were no longer alive, the communities around them were. I was impressed by the beauty of the dresses and I was sure that Mexico had the most fantastic high fashion – haute couture that was not only representative of my country but also world-class.
 
I grew up in a Mexico that said we didn’t have an identity, we were always trying to copy fashion from abroad. I couldn’t believe we didn’t have the open eyes to see the beauty and the cultural heritage made by artisans in our country. In Mexico, almost 90% of textiles are made by women. This heritage, this knowledge of textiles, is inherited from mother to daughter. We are speaking of a high fashion, haute couture, that has been there for almost 3,000 years.
 
MYKITA: Your collections are created in partnership with more than 175 artisans across Mexico. What does a typical collaboration look like, and how do you balance tradition with innovation?
 
CF: We say that tradition is not static, it keeps evolving. For us it’s very important to demonstrate that. That’s why we co-create with artisans around Mexico City and across the country – it’s not only us directing the production or saying what we want. It’s sitting together in front of the piece and co-creating, workshop to workshop.
 
We work with many traditions, such as the backstrap loom and the featherwork of the purépechas.  This is how we understood that textiles are texts: we read each other through what we wear, we express ourselves through the garments we choose each day. Even the etymology of the word textile comes from the same root as text.
 
MYKITA: You’ve been a pioneer in ethical fashion long before it became a widespread conversation. What do you think the industry still gets wrong about sustainability? And how does certification, like your B Corp status, fit into your vision of responsibility?
 
CF: In true luxury there should be no oppression. It’s also very difficult to declare yourself sustainable or ethical on your own terms. That’s why we ask for certification outside of our brand — to be held accountable, to learn and to improve. For us, being a B Corp is very important.

MYKITA presents Carla Fernández Salon – impressions from the opening event. Photography by Brian Pollock.

MYKITA: What does it mean for you to bring the Carla Fernández Salon to New York at this time?
 
CF: It’s very important to have a salon in New York, especially during Fashion Week. We love MYKITA – we even did a runway show with you using your glasses – because it’s a brand that also understands the process of the handmade. When you work with handmade processes, you take in your surroundings, you are inspired through the eyes, it connects to your heart and then passes through your hands. Each piece is unique and made with care, and that is the connection we share with MYKITA.

We are also very happy that the timing coincided with Pedro’s exhibition. He works with stone, with his hands. And then you have Art Week in New York, Fashion Week, and also exhibitions like the MoMA show, inclduing Graciela Iturbide or surrealist fashion exhibition at FIT. So I think, Mexico is having a moment not just in Mexico, but everywhere. Also, for us, New York City – it’s a second home.

MYKITA: Enjoy the rest of the week and thank you so much for your time!

MYKITA presents Carla Fernández Salon is open until Sunday, 12 September at the MYKITA store in Soho, New York.